As promised here is the post about everything HENNA.
The best information about henna is found on hennaforhair.com, so I'm not gonna reinvent the wheel by posting shtuff they already have on that comprehensive site. But I do want to share the key things I've learned on my henna journey.
I started out buying a kit from hennacolorlab.com because it seemed like the easiest way to get my feet wet with doing henna. Their kits come premixed so you don't have to figure out how to get the color you want or what other things should go into it (fruit acid, alma, etc.) - I just had to select dark brown and click buy now! I didn't have to premix the henna the night before or measure out exact quantities. And, the wait time was only 2 hours as compared to the typical 4 hours. It is a good way to start out.
HOWEVER, I definitely noticed that the mixes I bought from them (and I went through about 10 batches of it) fades quickly, and turns to a more brassy look over your grays, so you end up having to henna more frequently. Also their henna tends to be more clumpy than others (see pic above) which may indicate a lower grade of henna. The one I buy now is way more smooth, hardly any clumps.
So now I buy all my henna products from mehandi.com. If you have dark brown hair like mine, this is what I buy:
RAJASTHANI TWILIGHT HENNA - 100 g (2 packs)
ZEKHARA INDIGO - 100 g (6 packs)
Citric Acid - 50 g (1 container)
It's way better to call in your order because they can answer any questions you have AND give you better pricing by applying any available discounts to your order. Phone # is 1-855-MEHANDI. (This is not an ad--I don't get any kickbacks from posting this info.)
The Recipe: Henna Mix for Dark Brown Hair
2 Tbsp Henna
6 Tbsp Indigo
1 tsp citric acid
The process might seem intimidating the first time, but you'll get used to it and by the second time you'll be mixing henna like a pro.
The Process
Measure 2 Tbsp of henna into a small bowl (glass, ceramic or plastic, but not metal). Add a very small amount of water to it and stir. Keep adding water LITTLE by little until your mixture reaches the consistency of greek yogurt.
Cover with saran and let sit on the counter for 8-12 hours (set a timer!). After that time, either use it right away or put it in the freezer to use later.
Measure 6 Tbsp of indigo into a larger bowl. Add a very small amount of water to it and stir. Keep adding water LITTLE by little until your mixture reaches the consistency of greek yogurt.
Mix your henna mixture into the indigo mixture (thaw henna mixture to room temp if it was in the freezer).
Put on some gloves because the henna will stain your hands.
With a coloring brush, paint the henna onto your hair starting at the roots. I usually only do my roots and only what's leftover to paint onto the ends.
Cover your whole head with a shower cap. Put a beanie over that.
Wait 4 hours.
Rinse out. I do this in the garden because I'm afraid of clogging the tub drain, and henna is just ground up leaves so it's totally biodegradable.
Use a whole lot of conditioner. This might seem like it defeats the no-poo purpose, but trust me, it really helps to get the henna out, make your hair feel smoother, moisturize your hair, and get rid of the henna smell (tho it's not too bad--smells like a forest).
Some lessons I've learned along the way that I wish someone had told me beforehand:
Don't put vaseline around your hairline to prevent staining your skin. It will cause the hairs around your hairline to not take the henna stain. I was doing this for months before I figured out what was wrong!
If you're in a pinch and can't wait the 8-12 hours for the henna dye release (during that time it actually changes color), you can get away with not waiting, but your henna may not last as long (in other words you'll have to henna again sooner).
Though they don't recommend it, I've tried mixing in a little coconut milk with my henna (in place of some of the water) and it leaves your hair with more moisture than if you used only water. Henna does feel drying (your hair feels gritty afterwards) but actually it's just because it's opening up the cuticle (like lifting up scales) on your hair shaft to let the stain in. When you use conditioner or ACV rinse, the cuticle calms back down. It's a normal part of the process.
I henna my hair every 2-3 weeks. But by 3 weeks I see a lot of new growth and there's too much white in there for my comfort level. I'm not gonna grow old gracefully! #fightingitstepbystep
You can sleep with your head full of henna. It's not the most comfortable thing to do because your head feels hot if you wear a beanie, and the smell is pretty strong. I've only slept with it for 8 hours when I added coconut milk to it. I feel like the wait made the henna last longer. But I get a headache if I wait too long because the shower cap and beanie are so tight around my head.
I do feel the need to condition my hair every so often (2-3 times a week) with my own DIY conditioners whether it's pure aloe vera out of the plant, a honey mask, my go-to healing hair mask, or all of the above. LOL
I never leave a list with only 6 items. You can read about how to mix henna, indigo and cassia to achieve other colors if your hair isn't naturally dark brown. My recipe is pretty dark, but I LOVE the color. My ends will always be lighter thanks to the amount of time I spend in the salt water and sun, but I'm happiest with my roots right after I've henna'ed! And I'll never go back to chemical coloring kits from Longs. Not even if they go on clearance!
P.S. If you want to start out with a kit from Henna Color Labs, I'd encourage you to do it just so you can get used to the application process, wait time, smelling like a forest, etc. LOL. I LOVE their mission statement, branding, packaging, and the little flyer that comes with your order. It makes you feel good about yourself--they're so affirming! (I know it's just marketing but I'll totally take it.)
Corinne--I know right? This is long already! But this is good stuff--love that EWG cosmetics guide. I'm gonna compare some of my ingredient lists to that right now! Thanks for that!
If we keep writing to each other this is going to get long! haha. Anyway, check out ewg.org if you have the chance. I once read a lot on this site and then it all went out the window because of "life" and getting busy and some of the safer brands are just so expensive. But here's a neat link from the site that is handy about ingredients to avoid: https://static.ewg.org/files/EWG_cosmeticsguide.pdf?_ga=2.160689274.656163748.1572407739-557926157.1572407739
As for the Christophe Robin... I looked and it says it's good for only 3 to 5 shampoos later! That means a lot more masks of 30 minutes! It's like using it weekly! I don't know if that's too much maintenance for me! We'll see though. Seems "safer."
Aw shucks--that one is still bad too? I was just thinking how easy it would be to go back to that. There was one that shipped to Hawaii...I have to look again. The Christophe Robin one sounds intriguing. LMK what you find out about it!
I clicked the Amazon link and thought oh, price is decent and then it says they don't ship to Hawaii! Try to read hweekes561 's review though. She's saying the ingredients are still bad... It is hard to find truly safe stuff unless, like you, you mix your own. I was on Sephora and there's this mask/color from Christophe Robin that's (cough, cough) $53 but I am a little intrigued because someone said they use only to cover grays and they feel it lasts six months...
Corinne, this is the more natural hair color I was using for a while. I think it's better than the Longs stuff at least: Herbatint Permanent Herbal Haircolor Gel, Chestnut, 4.56 Ounce and I used to get it either at Kokua Market or on Amazon: https://amzn.to/2MS3vIs You gotta just do what works for you. And I totally understand the need for efficiency!